Eat, Sleep, Dive, Repeat – MV Bavaria Liveaboard

This post isn’t about the dives, that’s in four other posts (one per day). Instead, I want to muse about the liveaboard experience itself.

I’ll from the top: booking. I was already to be in Thailand from the 4th – 18th, and finishing a group trip in Khao Lak, where all the liveaboards leave from, so the plan was to ditch out during the third segment of the group trip and go dive. I looked at several boats, at liveaboard.com, and at padi.com. Because I was primarily focused on something that fit between my arrival into Khao Lak on the 13th and not extend my vacation very far, I landed on a four day, thirteen dive northern Similan trip on the MV Bavaria, from the 15th-18th, meaning I just extended my trip by one day for the flight buffer.

The boat actually runs a week, and its possible to leave or join midway, so we travelled out to the liveaboard on a speedboat since we were just in the back half of the trip. Eighty minutes later, our gear was on deck, we were getting a briefing from the diving lead, and we were just about twenty minutes from our first dive.

Getting Ready to Dive

Equipment prep is one of the most stark differences between this liveaboard and charter diving. I’m used to “setup your gear, dive, swap your gear to a new tank in the surface interval, dive again.” In this case, once I setup my gear, I never changed it. Between dives, we just removed our regulators and they filled the tanks in place. It made each dive just that much more enjoyable.

From dive briefing to getting on the dinghy was maybe five minutes. More if I was in a wetsuit. The boat was organized into four dive groups, and we were spaced every other tank on one side of the deck or the other, and deployed in two stages, so while it was a bit congested, it was spaced out reasonably well.

The dive locations seemed pretty flexible; weather, goals, visibility. What was originally planned could change to get the best out of the dives. A couple of our dives, they chose to forego quality for a chance to see a whale shark or other large fish (which was unsuccessful). Richelieu Rock, we left early because viz was bad and currents were high. I appreciate the flexibility, and I recognize that the dive masters want to see this stuff, too!

Boredom and Buddies

I was afraid that, being stuck on a boat for four days would lead to boredom, or a crazy rush. It was neither. Food, an hour or two of downtime, then another dive. About half the boat was spending the downtime going through fish books, writing in their logs, doing a debrief with their DM, some were taking a nap, some were reading or sunning on the top deck. But honestly, that time just flew by. I felt neither rushed, nor bored, but just dove from sunup to sundown, and each day felt complete when it was over.

A few of the people on the boat were doing their Nitrox course material. Everyone dove nitrox, and those that weren’t certified, did it on the boat. It was necessary, even if they didn’t say so. The bulk of the dives were at 20-30m, and on at least one of them, I was pushing NDL. Diving on air would not have been possible, or at least, I would have been the one pulling us up out of the water early for reasons other than an empty tank.

The boat was filled with people from all over: Poland, Germany, France, Australia, Finland, the UK… 12 countries across 20 travelers. Several were couples, Josh and I friends, several were solo travelers. English was the common language used, even though it was a German boat with German and Thai dive pros. The one thing that was common is that we were all divers, and that made for pretty compatible personalities.

And from one of the boat buddies, Phillipe, an overview video of the trip (though with a few extra days included)

Liveaboard Day 1: Similan #8 and #9, and Koh Bon

Operator Site Dive Depth Bottom Time
Loma Diving - MV Bavaria Similan #8, Turtle Shaped Rock 66 77.0 43 minutes
Similan #9, Three Trees 67 71.0 56 minutes
Koh Bon, Bay 68 50.8 43 minutes

First Dive off the Boat

I’m going to try and stick to one or two topics per dive. This time, I’ll focus on gear. I’ve never dove without a wetsuit; however, this dive, and most of the following, I chose to dive in just shorts and a 1.5mm rash guard. I picked up an O’Neill rashguard off the clearance rack at REI just a couple weeks prior to the trip, and thought it might be perfect. With 83F water temps (the same as the air!), there wasn’t a particular need for a full wetsuit. The ease of getting the protection gear on in just a few seconds, and 4kg of weights being too much, was wonderfully pleasant.

Three Trees

Dive two of the day was to a fairly wide-open area, with amazing visibility and a moderate amount of life. The 30m+ visibility was refreshing, the water beautiful and nice, and this was a great way to begin my first day of diving.

Not having to setup my gear, but jump right in just a few minutes after hitting the deck was fantastic.

Night Dive at Koh Bon

Our first night dive was fantastic. I’m used to finding interesting fish, larger predators hunting. This dive did not disappoint. The highlight of the dive was ten or more moray eels out hunting. I’ve experienced barracuda taking advantage of highlighted prey from the flashlights, for this dive I got to see many eels do the same: follow the light and catch a meal.

One interesting learning I had was around my camera: I have had “white out” conditions while diving with two large floods. I learned that, using my normal dive flashlight did very little for night photography, but I could turn the two larger floods out to create two lightly overlapping circles of light, creating a nice area of visibility.

Thailand – Koh Kradan

Operator Site Dive Depth Bottom Time
Trang Pro Dive South Tip 64 48.4 51 minutes
Au Nang Bay 65 35.2 50 minutes

Six days into our Thailand trip, Josh and I had scheduled a single day dive, partially to finish up his AOW cert we started in Cancun, partially for me to check out my gear before the liveaboard, but mostly because we had a free day and our resort, the Sivilai Beach Resort in Koh Muk, has a dive shop on site.

We chatted with them the day before, and I asked about where we were diving, how far the boat ride, etc, as I wanted to bring the right gear (the shop is literally 50 feet from my room). I mentioned wearing my wetsuit out to the boat, and they laughed. Wetsuit? Apparently, the outside temperature is 83F, and the water temperature is also 83F. Fortunately, I had picked up a 1.5mm swim top on the REI clearance rack, so this and shorts became my dive gear.

We went out to Koh Kradan, about a 20 minute ride on a longtail boat, with just one DM (from Mexico!), one instructor, Josh and me. When we got down, visibility was awful, maybe five feet at best. Fortunately, this is a site that our shop goes to almost daily, so we did get to see stuff that they “knew where it was”, generally speaking.

Highlights of the two sites: several clownfish in their own reef, a trio of seahorses pipefish, a trio of cuddlefish, one large and one very small black and white eel, a very interesting and large clam, some coral life quite different than what I’ve seen elsewhere, lionfish, and some nudibranch.

The lowlight of this dive was, distracted by my camera and lacking any visibility, I did slice my palm wide open, and my shin slightly too. As well, the GoPro does not focus well in camera mode in low viz, though the videos do fine. Guess it’s video stills for the liveaboard: glad to know that ahead of time!

Some key learnings for myself: the GoPro does a poor job focusing on camera shots in low visibility, I should stick to video mode and grabbing stills. My mouthpiece may have been a leading cause of my at-depth panic in March, I’ve swapped it now, but found some mini unwarranted freakouts on these dives, and it seemed to be tied to the mouthpiece (weird). And Newskin should be in my travel kit.